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- Journal of an LD9 Rebuild
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| Journal of an LD9 Rebuild | |
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| Topic Started: Nov 15 2006, 05:30 PM (15,236 Views) | |
| od1 | Nov 15 2006, 05:30 PM Post #1 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Well the rebuild has begun! I wanted to start this topic to share what I expect to be interesting challenges rebuilding/upgrading my engine/Z24. I hope members benefit from lessons learned during the project. I welcome all advice, warnings, and opinions both good and bad. My goal is more to learn about modifying the J-Body than just having mods done fast. Next I will post an overview of all the modifications I plan to do in the coming months. During the project I will post pics, info, and questions for all to see. It will be interesting to see if some of the after market products I plan to use really work or don't get used for some important reason. Don |
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| od1 | Nov 15 2006, 06:20 PM Post #2 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Phase One WI-JTuner 2007 Calendar HP Tuners Auto Meter wide Band Air/Fuel Kit 3378 Spark Plugs for N2O RK Sport Spark Boot Springs O2 Sensors for header/exhuast set up MSD DIS II Programmable Ignition New Ignition Coils Body Repair (Racine Auto Body/Dec 7th) Phase Two Cooling Mist Alc Injection Vari Cool Commander Kit Throttlebody Spacer (Airaid) Larger Throttle Body Custom Airbox (K&N filter) to Ram Air Hood Relocate Dual Optima Batteries to Trunk PulleyBoys Kit Rebuild/Port/Polish GM supercharger at Siegemeier New Drive Belt Phase Three Cyl Head Camshaft Kit New Lifters S/S Valves New Locks H/D Springs Bronze Guides Cometic Head Gasket Head Port/Polish at Siegemeier ARP Head Studs New Injectors sized for new mods Short Block Wiesco .20 over Pistons/Rings Eagle Rods Cleivette 77 bearings ARP Main Studs 2.3L Oil Pump Conversion Alum Flywheel New Alt/Starter/Water Pump/Plugs/Thermostat/Steering Pump/A/C Comp /Timing Set/Gaskets Systems 4340 Forged Axles Transmission Poly Bushings Suspension Poly Bushings New Radiator/Hoses/Brake Master Cyl/all sensors Phase Four Euromax 612 17x7.5 Rims BF Goodrich KDW 225/45/17ZR tires 6 pack Mountain Dew Then I am taking a nap. Don |
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| BoltZ22 | Nov 15 2006, 09:05 PM Post #3 |
http://www.BoltZDesignZ.com
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looks very promising. i love how the calendar is the first thing on the "Mods" list. lol. if you need an extra hand at anytime let me know. if i'm free, i'll come over and help. i'd like to learn as much first hand about the ld9 as possible, since it may be a future swap into the sunfire i'm picking up. |
  DRIVE HARD GEAR - Your One Stop Automotive Apparel Shop What do you know about Street Racing anyways? Only what Fast & The Furious taught us.... so everything! | |
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| od1 | Nov 15 2006, 09:19 PM Post #4 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Sounds great, not being in a hurry, I could try to schedule some mods to fit us both so you can make it over. I have an attached two car garage so we will be inside with a heater on. |
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| Darkstars | Nov 15 2006, 10:10 PM Post #5 |
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Advanced Member
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I'd offer to help out if you had an eco but I don't knwo  about 2.4.... but if you need an extra set of hands let me know
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 Click sig for list of modifications, pictures, & videos | |
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| ToyFire | Nov 15 2006, 10:26 PM Post #6 |
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Id be willing to help too. Too bad I am way up here but I am definetly looking forward to updates on the build. I have thought about picking up a spare 2.4 to build then swap with a 5 spd into my car. So keep us posted with lots of pics. |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 12:15 AM Post #7 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Thanks everyone; tomorrow I will post the first chapter, Nitrous systems/Spark Plugs. Darkstars gave me a good warning and I did some comparing and pics. Don |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 02:02 PM Post #8 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Here is a list of the mods already done to the car: GM 2.4L Super Charger Kit RK Sport 4-2-1 Ceramic Header Magnaflow S/S dual Exhaust Kit Magnaflow CAT and resinator Center Force Dual Friction Clutch B&M Short Shifter Nitrous Express NXL and GEN X II Kits MSD RPM Window Switch RK Sport Upper & Lower Engine Mounts 255 in tank Fuel Pump Hawk HP brake pads Brembo Slotted Rotors Goodridge S/S brake lines KYB AGX's Eibach Pro Spring, Anti Roll, and Align Kits RK Sport Body Kit - Ram Air Hood/Front Valance/Side Skirts/Rear Bumper/3-Piece Spoiler Auto Meter Sport Comp Gauges - Fuel Press/Oil Press/Nitrous/Boost This is where I am starting at and I have all related part numbers and vendor info if someone wants it. Don |
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| BoltZ22 | Nov 16 2006, 02:27 PM Post #9 |
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http://www.BoltZDesignZ.com
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sounds good. maybe thanksgiving weekend? i get outta work on noon wednesday and don't go back until monday. thursday is a no go since it's thanksgiving and one of those days I was planning on going with Zach to go get the Sunfire he is selling to me (It's sitting up in Wisconsin Rapids area at the moment). |
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DRIVE HARD GEAR - Your One Stop Automotive Apparel Shop What do you know about Street Racing anyways? Only what Fast & The Furious taught us.... so everything! | |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 04:00 PM Post #10 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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May be with family, let me check. |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 04:14 PM Post #11 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Talked with NGK corp tech today and ordered two additional sets of plugs. Should have them tomorrow and have lots of info to post. Flywheel:  I have a Fidanza Alum flywheel. The installation instructions were avaiable at their website http://www.fidanza.com/Downloads.aspx I was told by the shop installing my clutch, I need a new set of flywheel mounting bolts for install because they are one time usage. The Fidanza instructions state that the alum flywheel will not fit as tight as OEM because alum and steel flywheels bear heat differently. The shop that put in the clutch did not feel comfortable installing the alum flywheel because of the loose fit. The alum flywheel did not come with a mounting bolt kit, the shop ordered a oem bolt kit from a GM dealer. I have two questions: 1. Has anyone notice a loose fit installing an alum flywheel? What did you do? 2. Weight aside, is there a concern with duribility with the alum flywheel as opposed to OEM steel? Don |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 04:17 PM Post #12 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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almost forgot, I am not doing anything major prior to Dec 7th so I can drive it down to Racine Auto Body. Sorry, but hey then you get your bumper!! No more ugly dent!!  
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| rawkfist | Nov 16 2006, 09:23 PM Post #13 |
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Post Whore Galore
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i hope you didn't get one of fidanza's bad batches. I read a few people have had problems with something on them and they almost shatter. You would know when you push in the clutch and hear it cracking. I personaly am going SPEC flywheel because im one scared it would break, two they are lighter then all flywheels (not nice for DDing like ill need it. In between shifts will SUCK munkeys, and start and stops will be semi trickier. You will allow you to clime through the RPMs alot faster tho. (info brought to you from me who learned it from Darkstar!) |
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| od1 | Nov 16 2006, 11:26 PM Post #14 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Darkstars, any thoughts? |
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| od1 | Nov 17 2006, 05:06 PM Post #15 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Spark Plugs: In my search for plugs that would work with boost and nitrous, I found this: NGK Tech Support - Chris at 1-877-473-6767 can help search tech info specific to your set up. He is knowledgeable about NGK product specs and how they relate to N/A, Boost, N2O, or any combo. 1. Use only pry gap tools on iridium plugs, no coin tools they push against the tip. 2. NGK Iridium plugs come gapped at 40 thou. For up to 11 psi boost go 1 step colder TR6IX and gap at 35 thou. For boost and 75-100hp shots of nitrous go 2 steps colder TR7IX and gap at 35 thou. Next I measured different plugs for the 2000 LD9: (Darkstar had warned of a problem Ecos have with plugs being to short and the electrode not fitting completely in the chamber. Bosch +4 (I was using before nitrous) P/N ? Source Anywhere Tip Material Platinum Temp range - Stock Thread base to electrode 15/16 inch Top to thread base 2 1/16 inch NGK TR55IX P/N ? Source Advanced Auto Tip Material Iridium Temp range - Stock Thread base to electrode 15/16 inch Top to thread base 2 1/16 NGK TR6IX P/N 3689 Source Advanced Auto Tip Material Iridium Temp range - 1 step colder Thread base to electrode 1 inch Top to thread base 2 1/16 inch NGK TR7IX P/N 3690 Source Advanced Auto Tip Material Iridium Temp range - 2 steps colder Thread base to electrode 1 inch Top to thread base 2 1/16 inch A/C Delco FR2LS (listed on JBO under Nitrous faqs) http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=39&i=11692&t=11692 P/N 41-602 Source Autozone Tip Material - unknown, looked like nickel Temp range - 2 steps Thread base to electrode 1 inch Top to thread base 2 inch pics:     Question: Has anyone had problems using RK Sport Spark Boot Springs?   Ok, I'm done now! 
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| Awall811 | Nov 17 2006, 05:19 PM Post #16 |
Post Whore
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ive heard that the platinums are terrible for boosted cars |
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| od1 | Nov 17 2006, 06:51 PM Post #17 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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I don't know, but I have seen a lot of warnings not to use them with nitrous. I put the Bosch plugs in as a ref point, because they were stock and I had used them prior so I knew they fit the engine. |
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| od1 | Nov 18 2006, 09:25 PM Post #18 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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I know many do not like to use of the stock airbox, but here is what I did today. Airbox: I used a dremel to clean up and open up the airbox for max flow from the ram air hood and on to the K&N filter.  Battery Relocation to Trunk: I also made two flat black battery trays from a couple of marine battery boxes from Advanced Auto ($14.00 ea). I wanted a 1 1/2 inch tray lip to support mounting twin Optima red top baterries in the trunk. I also picked up Stainless Steel mounting hardware via Lowes. All the trays I found were to big and flat, so I made my own with a dremel. I have most of what I need to move the battery to the trunk and free up some space for when I change out the throttle body. Now I have to wait until the cooling mist kit arrives so I can see how the tank will fit in the trunk.    Hope everyone is enjoying the nice cool weekend. Don |
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| Darkstars | Nov 18 2006, 11:27 PM Post #19 |
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Advanced Member
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ok my thinking on a flywheel.... 1st of all I don't know about hte play in the flywheel. I had a customer blow a trans on a new GTI, when I pulled the trans the flywheel was loose, so to be on the safe side I ordered a new flywheel with the new trans, the new flywheel still sat in there loose.... this was the first time I've ever seen this, I was real aprehensive to put it back together like that but I did and all was well. Findanza would not be my first choise for flywheels. I would go with a Spec clutch and flywheel. Spring of this past year Fidanza flywheels were snapping left and right, surpossedly in May they found and fixed the problem. After doing some research into Fidanaza I came acrost this..... "A couple of local machine shops around here, northeast ohio, I have been taking to lately say they will not deal with fidanza anymore, because they will do ANYTHING to cut costs. I guess they are VERY OPEN on materail specifications. They will accept anything untill it breaks then blam everything on the manufacturer. I'll see if one of the shops will let me take pictures of the flywheels they sent back to the shop. Two shops I have talked to said that Fidanza knew there was a problem and didn't want to change the design till more broke "in the field." Total B.S. in my oppion. I see if I can get pictures." I perosnally would not use a fidanza flywheel. As for using a lightweight flywheel, as rawkfist said lighweigh flywheel with make the engine alot more rev happy. A flywheel is preaty big piece and all it is is dead weight that the engine has to spin. When you get a lighter flywheel throttle responce is increased, it will rev faster, it will make alittle more power (it wont actually make power, it just robs less power so more power makes it to the wheels) but on the downside, there is less wieght and less momentum, which means rpms will drop extremely quick while shifting droping you out of your power band and since there is less momentum the clutch pedal will be alot more touchy and alot less forgiving, it will be ALOT easier to stall the engine and the you will probobally have to get used to reving it up a bit higher then normal to get the car moving form a stop. In your case I think it will be fine, you have a supercharger which is a big parasitic drain on the motor, you have to waste power (to spin the supercharger) to make power (boost) because of the that I'm thinking **THINKING** the extra drain for the supercharger should come close to evening out the drivability concerns with a lightweight flywheel. and the spark springs.... some people say they are a waste of money, some people say stock is better, I have them in the silver car and I noticed absolutely no difference in anything. If your doing part MSD I'd say do the whol MSD setup and have the real spark plug wires... everyone knows 2.4 ignition has always been prone to problems. |
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| od1 | Nov 18 2006, 11:50 PM Post #20 |
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Don (aka OD1)
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Dude, thanks for taking the time for that insightful answer. The flywheel is out, I would rather spend the money on SPEC than risk those problems. That response is why I asked. So for MSD, you talking about using the DIS II and MSD coils and plug wires?? That would eliminate the electronic ignition cover #61 right?  I'll have to do research to understand what all would be changing and where I would have to mount things. I'll look into it, thanks. |
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